Design Eyewear Group

Hello Claire. How did your journey in eyewear design begin and evolve?
I was drawn to design early on. I first earned a high school diploma in Applied Arts, then went on to complete a BTS at École Boulle and a DSAA at Olivier de Serres. Later, I did my master’s in Product Design at the Royal College of Art in London. This gave me two very different but complementary perspectives—one sociological and conceptual, shaped in France, and one more artistic and experimental, shaped in the UK. After my studies, I began working at Face à Face as a frame designer and have been in this profession for 15 years, evolving alongside the brand. Since joining Design Eyewear Group, which currently develops and markets nine brands, I co-direct the artistic vision of three of them.

What are the main challenges you face when working on a new design?
I’d say there are four key challenges. First, there’s the need to move beyond what’s already been seen and create something truly new. Then there are technical challenges—especially when trying to push manufacturing boundaries to meet design goals. For example, I love using sharp angles in Face à Face designs, but polishing processes tend to smooth everything out. We constantly work to preserve or reintroduce that sharpness. The third challenge is market-based: as a global brand, we must adapt our style DNA to fit the diverse preferences of different regions, in terms of color, shape, and sizing. And finally, there’s the balance issue—we aim to create something bold and surprising with every new collection, but it must also be elegant, wearable, and not feel like a caricature.

How do these challenges affect your design process?
They actually fuel creativity. All of these constraints become opportunities. I remember during my master’s program, when we were asked to design with complete freedom, I sometimes felt creatively blocked—there were just too many possibilities. Constraints provide a framework in which diverse personalities can be expressed. Just like in comic book illustration, in eyewear design, even a tenth of a millimeter can alter the emotion conveyed. The tiniest bend in a line can express boldness, kindness, or severity.

Where do you draw inspiration from when designing a new collection?
Our sources of inspiration are incredibly diverse. Being based in a showroom in the heart of Paris means we’re constantly influenced by galleries, museums, and even daily street life. We follow contemporary art and fashion closely. Paris Fashion Week, the ‘Première Classe’ accessories fair in Jardin des Tuileries, and Milan Design Week are all must-attend events for us. But inspiration goes even further—we’re passionate about our work, so new ideas often emerge while immersing ourselves in the optical world.

Which model are you most proud of, and what makes it stand out?
I’m especially proud of the Sotsas model from Face à Face. It was inspired by the legendary Italian designer Ettore Sottsass. We wanted to fuse eyewear and sculpture, using Sottsass’s bold colors and playful spirit. The temple design of the frame is a reinterpretation of the cylindrical armrest he once created for a sofa. Attaching a cylindrical shape to a hinge and integrating it into the temple design was technically challenging. Aesthetically, it’s become one of our most iconic models—surprising yet elegant. We later adapted the concept into a more refined optical version, the Kyoto model.

Do you believe it’s possible to design a frame that suits everyone?
Some brands aim for universal appeal. As a designer brand, we intentionally take more risks with bolder choices—this can evoke either strong love or strong dislike. However, we are working on more inclusive, innovative aesthetics. We follow what I’d call a “universal template,” designing shapes and proportions that suit a wide range of people while still feeling fresh and original.

Beyond commercial success, how do you define success in design?
Let’s take the example of the Eames chairs. Their success lies in perfectly capturing the essence of the object. This results in a unique, iconic form combined with strong functionality. So, I’d say success in design means creating something that stands apart aesthetically while performing its function beautifully.

It can be difficult to know what suits you when choosing new frames. Any tips?
There are many factors, and some are deeply personal. But a good general tip is to make sure your pupils are centered horizontally in the lenses. If you have a larger face and prefer smaller frames, I suggest rounder shapes. Square or rectangular frames should be proportionate to your face size. If you have a slimmer face, you have more flexibility. Oversized frames instantly give a more fashion-forward look. But whatever you choose, don’t rush—it’s not just an accessory; it’s a part of your personal expression.

Design Eyewear Group operates across Denmark, the UK, and France. Do you see distinct design sensibilities in each country?
Without falling into clichés, yes—there are definite regional sensitivities. Each of our three design teams reflects this. In Denmark, form follows function; there’s a minimalist, radical design ethos—less is more. In France, the approach is more Latin, bold, and free, with strong emphasis on storytelling and concept. In the UK, the end user’s style is more prioritized, and new forms are often inspired by street fashion.

How does your global customer profile influence your product line?
We definitely take regional differences into account. In the U.S., consumers tend to prefer classic, rectangular, or butterfly shapes—less risky, more conventional styles. Spanish, Italian, and French customers usually go for longer, squarer, and more colorful frames. That’s why all our models are available in two shapes and six colors. This variety allows us to offer multiple alternatives that cater to different tastes.

Source: Parisee

June 2025