Today, Balenciaga stands as a fashion empire, adored by celebrities and millions worldwide, preserving the craftsmanship of its founder, the ‘couture genius.’
Balenciaga’s journey began with Cristóbal Balenciaga, born in 1895. While details about his childhood remain uncertain, it is known that he grew up in a small fishing village in Spain. Following his father’s passing, his mother worked as a seamstress to support the family. Fascinated by her craft, Cristóbal took his first steps into fashion as an apprentice at a holiday resort in San Sebastián at the age of 12. Like many of his contemporaries, Cristóbal was entirely self-taught-there were no formal fashion schools or pattern-making programs at the time. Practical sewing lessons were typically provided in local churches to children from modest backgrounds. However, what set Cristóbal apart from other tailors was his sheer genius.
From Elisa to Balenciaga…
In 1917, Cristóbal Balenciaga opened his first fashion house under the name ‘Elisa,’ a shortened version of his mother’s maiden name. Expanding to Madrid in the 1920s, he later set his sights on the fashion capital-Paris. Forced to leave Spain due to the Spanish Civil War, he relocated to France in 1937, where he opened his first haute couture house on Avenue George V. Soon, it became one of the city’s most prestigious fashion addresses. Unlike his competitors, Chanel and Dior, Balenciaga distinguished himself with unparalleled craftsmanship. Starting his designs directly with fabric rather than sketches, he was a master of draping and tailoring. This talent earned him a devoted following, though he preferred to keep a small circle of acquaintances, including Christian Dior, Hubert de Givenchy, Carmel Snow, and Diana Vreeland. He remained distant from the press, even hostile at times.
The 1950s saw Balenciaga and Dior dominate the haute couture scene. While Dior embraced the fitted hourglass silhouette, Balenciaga introduced wide-sleeved designs that fell at the wrist, redefining post-war fashion. His reluctance toward the media grew stronger, and in 1956, he made a radical move-he withdrew from the Chambre Syndicale, the predecessor of today’s Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode. To protect his designs from American copycats, he showcased his collections a month after Paris’ official fashion calendar. Givenchy and Yves Saint Laurent followed suit, banning the press from their shows as well.
Balenciaga’s most groundbreaking innovations emerged in the 1950s and 1960s, shaping the foundation of the brand’s enduring legacy. He revolutionized women’s fashion with voluminous balloon skirts and loose, sack dresses that freed the body from restrictive silhouettes. Initially seen as radical and unwearable, these designs soon became timeless icons. However, after decades of legendary success, Balenciaga shocked the fashion world by closing his couture house in 1968. Believing haute couture had lost its true essence, he retired to his native Basque region. Though he passed away in 1972 at the age of 77, his unparalleled expertise in cut and silhouette continues to inspire designers today.
A New Chapter
Nearly 20 years after its closure, the Balenciaga fashion house was revived in 1986. After various creative directors, the brand found a new spark under Nicolas Ghesquière in 1997. His Spring/Summer 1998 collection breathed new life into Balenciaga, and many of his designs, from the patchwork dress to the iconic Motorcycle Lariat bag, remain legendary.
In 2001, Balenciaga was acquired by Kering Group, which also owns brands like Yves Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen, and Bottega Veneta. In 2015, Demna Gvasalia was appointed creative director, propelling the brand to new heights while staying true to Cristóbal Balenciaga’s mastery of structure and form. Under his direction, Balenciaga became Kering’s fastest-growing luxury brand in 2018, captivating millions with its bold and innovative approach to high fashion.
Returning to Its Heritage
In 2020, Gvasalia orchestrated the long-awaited revival of Balenciaga’s haute couture tradition. He meticulously assembled a specialized team to reintroduce couture in the historic George V atelier, marking the brand’s first couture collection in 53 years. This moment symbolized Balenciaga’s return to its roots. Further strengthening its presence, Balenciaga appointed its first-ever brand ambassadors in July 2023-legendary French actress Isabelle Huppert and 23-year-old Chinese actor and model Krit Amnuaydechkorn. In November 2023, Oscar-winning actress Michelle Yeoh joined as an ambassador, followed by Nicole Kidman in December. In January 2024, Kim Kardashian was announced as Balenciaga’s latest global ambassador. With its groundbreaking collections and striking campaigns, Balenciaga continues to define luxury fashion, honoring its founder’s legacy while leading the way for future generations.
Balenciaga Eyewear
Balenciaga’s eyewear collections reflect the brand’s avant-garde and innovative design ethos. The journey began in 2007 with a licensing agreement with Italian eyewear manufacturer Safilo Group. The collaboration debuted at Balenciaga’s Spring/Summer 2007 show, featuring 1970s-inspired women’s sunglasses that quickly gained attention. The partnership lasted until December 31, 2012. Following this, Balenciaga signed a five-year licensing deal with Marcolin Group in 2012, launching its first eyewear collection under the new partnership in 2013.
However, in 2018, Balenciaga transitioned to a new partnership with Kering Eyewear, bringing the design, production, and distribution of its eyewear in-house. The Spring/Summer 2019 collection was the first released under this collaboration.
Balenciaga’s eyewear designs are known for their bold, architectural forms, oversized silhouettes, and geometric lines. Every piece embodies the brand’s radical aesthetic and expert craftsmanship, solidifying its place in the world of high fashion.
Chronology:
1895
Cristóbal Balenciaga was born in Getaria, in the Basque region of Spain.
1917
Cristóbal Balenciaga opened his haute couture fashion house in San Sebastian, Spain.
1937
He opened his fashion house at 10 Avenue George V in Paris. The presentation of his first collection was met with great success from the press and buyers.
1947
The first Balenciaga perfume, “Le Dix,” was released. A year later, his second perfume, “La Fuite des Heures,” was introduced.
1951
Cristóbal Balenciaga designed the Vareuse and Cocoon collections. Though the collections were radical and unconventional, they quickly gained great popularity.
1952
He designed the Parachute dress. The waistline dropped to the level of the hips, reshaping silhouettes.
1955
He designed his first tunic. His third perfume, “Quadrille,” was released.
1957
Cristóbal Balenciaga continued to revolutionize the fashion world with simplified lines. He presented the Sack dress, the Cloche, and Paon collections.
1958
Cristóbal Balenciaga created Baby Doll dresses and the Gazar d’Abraham fabric. The famous designer was awarded the Legion d’Honneur.
1959
He presented the Amphore collection, featuring short jackets and higher waistlines.
1965
He designed the Pétale dress. Three years later, he presented his final collection and, after 30 years of fashion innovation, retired to his home in Spain.
1972
Cristóbal Balenciaga passed away on March 24, 1972, in Jávea, Spain. He was buried in his hometown in the Basque region.
1973
The “The World of Balenciaga” exhibition was held at the New York Metropolitan Museum.
1968 – 1997
The fashion house underwent a 30-year period of dormancy.
1997
Nicolas Ghesquière became the Creative Director of Balenciaga.
2001
Kering acquired the Balenciaga fashion house. The “Le City” bag was released.
2004
A ready-to-wear collection for men and accessories was introduced.
2006
The “Balenciaga Paris” exhibition opened at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris.
2011
The “Balenciaga and Spain” exhibition opened at the De Young Fine Arts Museum in San Francisco. The Cristóbal Balenciaga Museum opened in Getaria, Spain.
2012
The “Cristóbal Balenciaga: The Collection of Fashion” exhibition opened at Les Docks Cité de la Mode et du Design in Paris. Alexander Wang was appointed Creative Director of Balenciaga.
2015
Demna became the Creative Director of Balenciaga.
2016
The first Balenciaga men’s runway show was presented for the Spring/Summer 2017 collection.
2017
The 100th anniversary celebrations took place. The “Balenciaga in Black” exhibition was held in Paris, the U.S., and the Netherlands. The “Balenciaga Shaping Fashion” exhibition opened at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.
2021
Demna relaunched the Balenciaga Couture collection after 53 years.
2022
The Spring 2023 collection was presented in New York. A Couture store was opened at Balenciaga’s historic address, 10 Avenue George V.
2023
Balenciaga returned to its birthplace in Paris, expanding to 10 and 12 Avenue George V. The Fall 2024 collection was presented in Los Angeles.
2024
The Spring 2025 collection was presented in Shanghai. Demna was awarded the Order of Arts and Letters by the French Minister of Culture. The “The Subtleties of a Dialogue” exhibition by Balenciaga opened as part of the 2024 European Heritage Days in Paris.
